Under the influence of Western fashion, the design changed, giving a new look to the old qipao. The cheongsam became shorter, the side slits became more revealing, following the Western trend of exposing legs. The qipao not only liberated women’s legs, said Cao Juren, but also their arms. Qipaos with short, long or capped sleeves could be found. Claire Roberts mentioned that Western-style frilled sleeves could also be added.
Progressively, the qipao also became more tight-fitting, accentuating the curves of the body. The design of qipaos, especially, followed the trends to be observed in “the Paris of the East,” Shanghai, which was regarded as the center of Chinese fashion. Thanks to designers’ capacity of matching qipaos with both new trends and a new social context, the cheongsam became extremely popular — maybe the most popular female garment — in Hong Kong in the 1930s.
In the 1940s, the country entered a time of war. Shanghai’s economy crashed, leading to a shortage of goods and high inflation and innovation in fashion was hot a priority any more. In the late 1940s, few people wore qipaos. Later, elegant qipaos were replaced by simple clothing, in line with revolutionary ideals. The Mao suit became like a national uniform. During the Cultural Revolution (1966-1976), said Cao, the qipao was considered decadent, as it was said to represent capitalism and feudalism. It is said some qipaos were burned and their owners even punished.
At this point, one could expect that the qipao had definitely fallen into oblivion but, surprisingly, it reappeared in the 1980s. At that time, it was often used as a uniform for waitresses in restaurants and other female employees, but also by a few other women, convinced of its charm. Its popularity was also encouraged by internationally, acclaimed Chinese movies,such as Farewell My Concubine, and, more recently, In the Mood for Love.